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Issue date: Feb 13, 2000

In this article:
Recipe: Beef & shiitake mushroom stew
Recipe: Garlic Mashers
Recipe: Teriyaki Salmon with Mirin Cucumber Salad
About the cook


Exotic East-West stew:
Great excuse to celebrate

I have to be honest: As a kid growing up in Dayton, Ohio, I was excited about the incredible array of food served during my family's Chinese New Year celebrations, from steamed whole fish to Eight Treasured Rice for dessert. But I really liked the many "red envelopes" filled with dollar bills for the children and guests.

Nowadays, the food takes top billing during the holiday, which started last Saturday and runs through Feb. 20. And in my kitchen, it often incorporates elements from both Eastern and Western cooking. Take this hearty stew: It features steak and carrots as well as shiitake mushrooms and fermented black beans. Maybe it's my northern Chinese heritage, but I'm a great fan of stews, which are typical of that region. Instead of rice, the stew is spooned over creamy, garlic-infused potatoes -- a new American favorite.

So this weekend I wish you a Happy Year of the Dragon and peace and good eating.

Beef & Shiitake Mushroom Stew
Prep time: 35 minutes
Cooking time: 2 hours

2 pounds hanger or skirt steak, cut into 2-by-2-inch pieces
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 Tbs. canola oil
2 large red onions, cut into 1/2-inch dice
2 large carrots, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch dice
2 celery stalks, cut into 1/2-inch dice
1 Tb. Chinese fermented black beans (found in Asian markets and some supermarkets), rinsed and drained
1 Tb. finely chopped fresh ginger root
Cloves from 2 heads of garlic, peeled but left whole
1 pound shiitake mushrooms, quartered, stems discarded
1 cup Shaoxing wine or dry sherry
1/3 cup soy sauce, preferably reduced-sodium
Serve with Garlic mashers (see following recipe)

Season the meat with salt and pepper. Heat a medium Dutch oven or other heavy pot over high heat, add 1 Tb. of the oil, and swirl to coat the bottom of the pot. When the oil shimmers, add the meat (you may need to do this in two batches) and brown on all sides.

Remove the meat; wipe out the pot with paper towels. Add the remaining 1 Tb. of oil, and when it shimmers, add the onions, carrots, celery, beans, ginger and garlic. Sauté over medium heat, stirring, until soft, 8-10 minutes. Add the mushrooms and wine, stir, and cook to reduce the wine by 20%, 4-6 minutes. Stir in the soy sauce. Return the meat to the pot, add enough water to cover, and cook, covered, until the meat is tender, about 2 hours.

Divide the garlic mashers among 6 large pasta bowls. Cover with the stew and serve.
Serves: 6.
Per serving:
452 calories, 34g protein, 20g fat (7g saturated), 20g carbohydrates, 3g fiber, 723mg sodium.

Garlic Mashers
Prep time: 15 minutes
Cooking time: 20-25 minutes

5 large russet (baking) potatoes (about 3 1/2 pounds), peeled and quartered
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1 Tb. canola oil
3 Tbs. finely chopped garlic (about 6 cloves)
1 cup heavy cream
11/2 Tbs. butter

Put the potatoes in a large saucepan. Add enough water to cover, plus 1/2 tsp. salt. Bring to a boil over high heat and cook until the tip of a knife inserted into the potatoes meets no resistance, 20-25 minutes.

Meanwhile, heat a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the oil and swirl to coat the bottom of the pan. When the oil shimmers, add the garlic and sautŽ, stirring, until golden, about 2 minutes. Add the cream and reduce by one third over medium heat, about 12 minutes.

Thoroughly drain the potatoes. Transfer them to a large bowl or the bowl of a mixer and add the cream mixture. Using a hand masher and wooden spoon, or a mixer with a paddle attachment, whip the potatoes until smooth. Fold in the butter, season with salt and pepper, and serve immediately with the beef stew.
Serves: 6.
Per serving:
382 calories, 5g protein, 20g fat (11g saturated), 45g carbohydrates, 4g fiber, 63mg sodium.

Teriyaki Salmon with Mirin Cucumber Salad
Prep time:
Cooking time:

SALAD:
1 1/2 tsps. wasabi powder *
1 Tb. mirin (Japanese sweet sake) *
1 Tb. rice wine vinegar
1 tsp. sugar
1/2 cup canola oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 cup soy sauce
Juice and zest of 2 oranges
3 Tbs. brown sugar
4 garlic cloves, peeled and left whole
1 Tb. fresh ginger, finely chopped
1 Tb. white sesame seeds
4 skinless salmon fillets (about 6 ounces each), preferably center cut
2 large English (hothouse) cucumbers, cut into julienne strips

To make the salad dressing, combine the wasabi powder and mirin in a medium bowl and mix to make a paste. Whisk in the vinegar and sugar. Whisk in the oil and season with the salt and pepper. Taste and correct the seasonings, if necessary. Prepare cucumbers separately and set aside.

To make the salmon, combine the soy sauce, orange juice and zest, brown sugar, garlic and ginger in a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil over high heat then simmer slowly until reduced by half or syrupy, about 15 minutes. Remove from the heat, stir in the sesame seeds and cool. Pour into a baking dish, add the salmon, turn to coat and marinate fish for 1 hour.

Prepare an outdoor grill or preheat the broiler. If cooking outdoors, spray the grill with nonstick cooking spray. Grill the salmon over high heat, or broil, turning once, until the flesh is slightly charred, about 4 minutes per side. Brush the fish with the remaining teriyaki sauce as it cooks. The fish will be medium-rare to medium.

About 10 minutes before serving, toss the cucumbers with enough of the vinaigrette to coat them completely. Correct the seasonings and set aside. Divide the salad among 4 plates. Place a salmon fillet on top of each portion and serve.
* Found in Asian markets and some supermarkets
Serves: 4
Nutrition:
708 calories, 41g protein, 47g fat (5g saturated), 3g fiber,30g carbohydrates, 4,220mg sodium.

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TIPS

"Tricks" to perfectly creamy mashed potatoes: Buy potatoes of uniform size and quarter them precisely so they cook evenly. Drain the potatoes thoroughly and mash while still piping hot.

Hanger steak -- a delicious, chewy cut the French call onglet -- is wonderful grilled but also benefits from stewing. Use skirt steak if your butcher can't get hanger steak.


About the author:

Ming Tsai is the author of Blue Ginger (Crown, $32.50), one of the hottest cookbooks at Amazon.com, and host of the Food Network's Emmy-winning East Meets West With Ming Tsai. His restaurant in Wellesley, Mass., Blue Ginger, was a Best New Restaurant nominee in the 1999 James Beard Awards. Find Ming on the Web at ming.com.

PHOTO CREDIT: Brian Leatart for USA WEEKEND

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