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Issue date: July 9, 2000

In this article:
About the author
Recipe: Pasta With Tomatoes, Green Beans & Feta
Recipe: Summer Vegetable Gratin
Recipe: Greek Salad

Recipe: Summer Squash & Rice Gratin
Recipe: Peach Cobbler with Raspberries
Recipe: Nectarine & Blueberry Crumble


Fresh from the farmers market
You'll want to make these simple summer dishes - full of bright colors and bright flavors - again and again.

What could be better than a farmers market in July? No matter where you live, by midsummer you're bound to come home with corn and tomatoes, zucchini and sweet onions. You can virtually live on vegetable dishes in summer.

Colorful gratins - quickly sautŽed vegetables bound with eggs, milk, cheese or even rice - can be made ahead and eaten warm or hot. Like the gratin at right, they're substantial enough to serve as a main dish, but light enough to make a beautiful side dish with meat or fish.

Summer tomatoes can be turned into a fast pasta sauce without any cooking. The Pasta With Tomatoes, Green Beans & Feta, below, is a perfect example - and the beans and pasta cook in the same pot to make it super-easy.

Pasta With Tomatoes, Green Beans & Feta
Prep time: 15 minutes.
Cooking time: 8-10 minutes.

11/2 pounds ripe tomatoes, seeded and diced
2 garlic cloves, minced or pressed
Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste, plus 1 Tb. salt for pasta water
1-2 Tbs. olive oil, or to taste
1-2 tsps. balsamic vinegar, or to taste (optional)
2 Tbs. chopped fresh chives
1 Tb. slivered or chopped fresh basil or mint
2 ounces feta cheese, crumbled (about 1Ú2 cup)
3/4 pound pasta (fusilli, rigatoni, farfalle or penne)
1/2 pound green beans, trimmed and broken in half

Start a large pot of water to boil with 1 Tb. salt. While water heats, toss tomatoes with garlic, salt, pepper, oil, herbs and vinegar (if using) in a pasta bowl. Add feta. Let sit at room temperature 15 minutes or longer. Taste and adjust seasonings.

Add pasta to boiling water. Cook 5 minutes. Add beans. Keep cooking until pasta is al dente, firm to the bite (see cooking time on package). Drain, toss with tomato mixture and serve.

The tomato mixture, without the herbs, can be made hours ahead. Hold in or out of the refrigerator, but let it come to room temperature before adding herbs and tossing with cooked pasta.
Serves: 4.
Per serving: 456 calories, 15g protein, 10g fat (3g saturated), 76g carbohydrates, 5.6g fiber, 475mg sodium.

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Summer Vegetable Gratin
Prep time: 30 minutes.
Cooking time: 30-40 minutes.

1 Tb. olive oil
1 small onion, chopped
1 medium or large red bell pepper, diced
3 medium zucchini (11/4 to 11/2 pounds), diced
1 to 2 large garlic cloves (to taste), minced or pressed
Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
Kernels cut from 1 large ear of corn
1 tsp. fresh thyme leaves, or 1/2 tsp. dried thyme
1 large tomato, peeled, seeded and diced
3 large eggs
3/4 cup milk (1%, 2% or whole)
2 ounces Gruyre cheese, grated (about 1Ú2 cup), or to taste

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Lightly brush 2-quart gratin or other shallow baking dish, such as a 13-by-9-inch Pyrex dish, with a bit of oil; set aside.

Heat olive oil over medium heat in large, heavy non-stick skillet. Add onion and cook, stirring often, until just tender, 3-5 minutes. Add red pepper and cook, stirring, until it begins to soften, about 3 minutes. Add zucchini, garlic and about 1Ú4 tsp. salt and continue to cook, stirring often, until the zucchini is translucent but still bright green. Stir in corn, black pepper and thyme and cook, stirring, a few minutes longer, until corn is barely tender. Stir in tomato, remove from heat and transfer to baking dish. Spread vegetables in an even layer.

Beat together eggs and milk. Add cheese, plus more salt and pepper, to taste, and stir together. Pour over vegetable mixture. Bake 30-40 minutes, until firm and brown.

This is good hot or at room temperature, and can be made several hours ahead.
Serves: 8 as a side dish or 4 as a main dish.
Per serving (based on 8): 164 calories, 10g protein, 7.5g fat (3g saturated), 15g carbohydrates, 2g fiber, 114mg sodium.

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Greek Salad
Prep time: 15 minutes.

1 small red onion, cut in half lengthwise, then sliced crosswise into semicircles
5 medium/large ripe tomatoes, peeled if thick-skinned, cut into wedges, the wedges cut in half if very large
1/2 European (long seedless) cucumber, or 1 regular cucumber, cut in half lengthwise, then sliced
1 large green, red or yellow bell pepper, cut in rings or 1-inch pieces
Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
2 Tbs. red wine vinegar or more to taste
4 Tbs. olive oil, to taste
3 ounces feta cheese, crumbled (about 3Ú4 cup)
2-3 Tbs. chopped fresh mint, or 1 tsp. dried oregano
12-16 imported black olives, pitted if desired

Soak onion slices 5 minutes in a bowl of cold water with 1 tsp. vinegar. Drain well. Toss with other ingredients. Taste, adjust salt and pepper, serve. Do-ahead tip: The vegetables and cheese can be assembled hours before serving. Add seasonings, vinegar, oil just before serving.
Serves: 4.
Per serving: 239 calories, 7g protein, 17g carbohydrates, 17g fat (5g saturated), 6g fiber, 256mg sodium.

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Summer Squash & Rice Gratin
Prep time: 30 minutes
Cooking time: 45 minutes

3 Tbs. olive oil, plus about 1/2 tsp. for the baking dish
1 medium onion, minced
2 pounds zucchini, yellow squash or a mixture, finely diced
2 garlic cloves, minced or put through a press
Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
2 large eggs
2 ounces Gruyre cheese, grated (1/2 cup)
1/2 cup long-grain, medium grain or Arborio (Italian short-grain) rice, cooked and cooled
1/2 cup chopped fresh parsley
1 tsp. fresh thyme leaves, or 1/2 tsp. dried thyme
2 Tbs. fresh or dry bread crumbs

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Brush a 2-quart gratin dish or shallow baking dish, such as a 13-by-9-inch Pyrex dish, with 1/2 tsp. olive oil and set aside. Heat 1 Tb. of the oil over medium heat in a large, heavy non-stick skillet and add the onion. Cook, stirring, until tender, about 5 minutes. Add the squash, garlic, salt and pepper, and cook, stirring often, for 8 to 10 minutes, until the squash is tender but not mushy. Remove from heat and let cool slightly. Beat the eggs in a bowl. Stir in the squash and onions, the cheese, rice, parsley and thyme. Taste and add more salt and pepper, if desired. Transfer to the baking dish. Sprinkle the bread crumbs over the top and drizzle with the remaining oil.

Bake 45 minutes, until firm and browned on the top. Remove from the heat and cool on a rack. Serve warm or cold.

Advance preparation: This can be made a day ahead of time and held in the refrigerator, tightly wrapped.
Serves 6 to 8
Nutrition per serving:
322 calories, 10g protein, 11g fat (3g saturated), 47g carbohydrates, 2g fiber, 62mg sodium.

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Peach Cobbler with Raspberries
Prep time: 25 minutes
Cooking time: 35 minutes
A peach cobbler is one of the ultimate summer desserts. The peaches become sweeter as they bake, and the raspberries add a nice acidic touch and beautiful color.

For the fruit:
6 cups peaches (about 2-1//2 pounds), peeled, pitted and sliced
2 Tbs. mild honey (such as clover or acacia) or brown sugar
2 Tbs. fresh lemon juice
1/2 tsp. cinnamon
1 to 2 Tbs. peach brandy, to taste (optional)
1 cup raspberries
2 Tbs. sifted unbleached white or all-purpose flour

For the topping:
1//2 cup stone-ground cornmeal
1 cup unbleached white or all-purpose flour
2 tsps. baking powder
1/2 tsp. baking soda
1 Tb. sugar
1/2 tsp. salt
6 Tbs. cold unsalted butter, cut into pieces
2/3 cup plain nonfat yogurt
2 Tbs. mild flavored honey, such as clover or acacia vWhipped cream, plain or vanilla yogurt, or ice cream for serving (optional)

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Butter a 2-quart gratin or baking dish, and set aside.

Toss the peaches in a bowl with the honey or brown sugar, the lemon juice, cinnamon and the 2 tablespoons flour.

Sift together the cornmeal, flour, baking powder, baking soda, sugar and salt. Transfer to the bowl of your food processor, if using, and pulse a few times to amalgamate the ingredients. Cut in the butter, pulsing with the food processor or mixing with forks, until the mixture has a coarse, mealy texture. Add the yogurt and honey and process or stir just until the mixture is homogenous. Gently stir the raspberries into the peaches and transfer the fruit to the buttered baking dish. Scrape all the liquid in the bowl in with the peaches. Spoon heaped tablespoons of the topping mixture over the peaches. They should be just about covered, although there may be some small spaces between the spoonfuls of batter; lightly moisten your fingertips and spread the topping if there are big spots where the fruit isn't covered. Place the baking dish on a baking sheet with a rim so that if the fruit bubbles over the juices won't run over your oven. Bake 30 to 35 minutes, or until the fruit is bubbling and the top golden brown. Remove from the oven and cool until warm on a rack. Serve warm, with whipped cream, yogurt or vanilla ice cream.

Advance preparation: This can be made a few hours ahead, but is best served warm. you can warm it for 15 to 20 minutes in a low oven.
Serves 6 generously
Nutrition per serving:
385 calories, 6g protein, 13g fat (7.5g saturated), 65g carbohydrates, 5g fiber, 482mg sodium.

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Nectarine & Blueberry Crumble
Prep time: 20 minutes
Cooking time: 45 minutes
Crumbles and crisps are the same thing -- a baked fruit dessert with a crisp and crumbly topping. They’re as popular as fruit tarts and require much less work.

For the filling:
2-1/2 pounds ripe but firm nectarines, pitted and sliced
1/4 cup light brown sugar
1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon
1/2 tsp. pure vanilla extract
1 Tb. fresh lemon juice
1 cup blueberries

For the topping:
1/4 cup pecans
3/4 cup rolled oats
1/2 cup whole wheat pastry flour or all-purpose flour
1/4 cup firmly packed light brown sugar or raw turbinado sugar
1/4 tsp. salt
1/4 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg
6 Tbs. cold unsalted butter
Cream, whipped cream, or vanilla or plain yogurt for serving

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Butter a 2- to 2-1/2-quart baking dish or gratin. Toss together the ingredients for the filling in a large bowl, then turn friot into the prepared dish.

Heat the pecans in a small dry skillet over medium heat, shaking the pan or stirring the nuts, until they begin to smell toasty. Remove from the skillet at once and chop the nuts coarsely.

Mix together the oats, flour, sugar, salt and nutmeg in a large bowl or in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the steel blade. Cut the butter into small pieces and work it into the flour mixture, either by taking up the mixture in handfuls and rubbing it briskly between your fingers and thumbs, or by using the pulse action in the food processor. The topping should have a crumbly consistency. Stir in the pecans.

Spoon the crumble topping over the fruit in an even layer. Bake until browned, about 45 minutes. Serve warm, with cream or yogurt if you wish.

Advance preparation: The topping will hold for a few hours in the refrigerator. The crumble can be baked a couple of hours ahead and reheated.
Serves 6 generously
Nutrition per serving:
380 calories, 5g protein, 17g fat (8g saturated), 57g carbohydrates, 6g fiber, 107mg sodium.

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TIPS

A gratin is like a quiche without pastry. The name is from the French gratter, to scrape, and refers to the crusty bits that stick to the dish and taste so good. A shallow dish aids this browning.
It's worth the effort to dice the vegetables, not just chop them: They become jewels dotting this bright dish. A dice cut is 1/4-inch square.


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About the author:
Martha Rose Shulman is the award-winning author of 10 cook books, including Provencal Light (William Morrow, $18), now in paperback. She scouts farmers markets near her home in L.A. www.martha-rose-shulman.com

Photo by Brian Leatart for USA WEEKEND


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