Issue Date: August 25, 2002
Dive in
This weekend, learn a better way to cook crustaceans for a classic shrimp cocktail.
By Pam Anderson
For tender, shapely shrimp, steam them over low heat.
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I've been making and eating shrimp cocktail for years, and I've always cooked my shellfish one way: boiled, in spice-infused salted water, with the shells on. I assumed that shrimp cooked in their shell (like meat roasted on the bone) were more flavorful, and that a quick blanch in boiling water kept them from tasting dry and overcooked.
But -- after three solid days of cooking and analyzing nearly 40 pounds of shrimp -- I've found a better, simpler way.
I started by comparing shrimp cooked in the shell and cooked peeled -- and concluded there was no taste difference. Because raw shrimp are easier to peel and devein than cooked ones, I decided to do the dirty work up front. I also discovered that flavoring the cooking liquid with spices, herbs and lemon zest makes the kitchen smell good but imparts virtually no flavor to the shrimp, so I dropped that step.
Although I noted differences among shrimp cocktail recipes, nearly all (like my old method) wanted me to cook the shrimp over high heat. After trying several high-heat methods -- blanching (boiling briefly in lots of water), shallow boiling, steaming, microwaving, broiling and roasting -- I found that regardless of the method, high heat caused the shrimp to seize up and tighten into tough, rubbery curls.
But steaming shrimp over very low heat made them dramatically more tender and flavorful, and they held their attractive hook shape. Furthermore, the gently steamed shrimp retained all of their flavor during cooking, while the boiled shrimp lost much of theirs to the cooking liquid.
To steam shrimp over low heat, choose a large, deep skillet or pot with a lid and a steaming apparatus. Though just about any steaming device will work, I prefer a large, collapsible steamer basket, 8 to 12 inches in diameter when fully opened. If you have only a small basket, know that shrimp cook quickly, so it's easy to do consecutive batches. If your pot is smaller than the collapsible basket, don't worry: Shrimp cling to the sides of a partially collapsed basket. Most important: Arrange the shrimp in a single layer so they cook evenly.
Start by heating a small amount of water in the lidded pot or skillet. (With low heat, you don't need much water.) Once the water starts to simmer, turn the heat as low as possible, set the shrimp-filled steamer basket in the pot, then cover and cook until the shrimp just turn opaque.
The size of the shrimp determines the cooking time. Medium shrimp (31 to 35 count per pound) generally are fully cooked in 4 to 5 minutes. Large shrimp (21 to 25 per pound) steam in 5 1/2 to 6 minutes. The jumbo size (16 to 20 shrimp per pound) takes 6 1/2 to 7 minutes. And colossal shrimp (fewer than 12 per pound) take 7 1/2 to 8 minutes. Simply set the timer for the lesser time and check. The shrimp should be firm, completely opaque and bright coral. If not, set the timer for another minute and check again. If in doubt, cover the pot, turn off the heat, and let residual heat gently finish cooking the shrimp.
These tender shrimp don't hook onto a cocktail glass as easily as the tightly curled, roly-poly variety. Solution: Simply cut a small slit on the underside of the shrimp where you want it to attach to the rim of the glass.
Contributing Editor Pam Anderson is the author of CookSmart (Houghton Mifflin, $28).
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4 fab flavors: Each can be covered and refrigerated up to 8 hours before serving.
Classic Cocktail Sauce
1 cup ketchup
1/4 cup minced celery
2 Tbs. prepared horseradish
1 1/2 Tbs. fresh lemon juice and 1/2 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
2 Tbs. minced fresh parsley, cilantro or dill
Black pepper, to taste
Mix all in a small bowl.
Makes 1 cup. Per Tb.: 17 calories,
0g protein, 4g carbohydrates, 0g fat, 0g fiber, 185mg sodium.
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Mango-Lime Salsa
1 1/2 cups diced mango (or a 24-ounce jar of mango in extra-light syrup, drained)
1/4 small red onion, diced
1/4 small red bell pepper, diced
1 small jalapeño, seeded and minced
1 Tb. minced fresh cilantro or parsley leaves
3 Tbs. fresh lime juice
1 heaping Tb. apricot jam
1/2 tsp. chili powder
Salt and black pepper, to taste
In a food processor or blender, turn mango into a chunky purée. Scrape into a medium bowl. Stir in remaining ingredients.
Makes a scant 2 cups. Per Tb.: 9 calories, 0g protein, 2g carbohydrates, 0g fat, 0g fiber, 1mg sodium.
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Lemon-Parsley-Caper Mayo
1/2 cup mayonnaise
1 cup minced fresh parsley leaves
1 Tb. lemon juice
1/2 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
2 scallions, minced
1/4 cup drained capers, finely chopped
Mix all in a medium bowl.
Makes 1 cup. Per Tb.: 52 calories, 0g protein, 1g carbohydrates, 5g fat (1g saturated), 0g fiber, 135mg sodium.
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Garlicky White Bean Dip
1 garlic clove
1 can (15- to16-ounce) cannellini beans, drained and rinsed
1/2 cup mayonnaise
1/2 tsp. oregano
1/4 tsp. salt
2 tsps. red wine vinegar
Process garlic in a food processor until very finely minced. Add beans; purée. Scrape into a small bowl. Stir in remaining ingredients.
Makes 1 cup. Per Tb.: 69 calories, 1g protein, 3g carbohydrates, 5g fat (1g saturated fat), 1g fiber, 109mg sodium.
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