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My easiest brunch ever

A simple formula for strata, the breakfast casserole that lets you make it your way.

When I plan brunch for a crowd, strata is one of the first dishes on my list. And I'm not alone in loving this easy breakfast casserole.

Why? Stratas are economical. A dish doesn't get much cheaper, more basic or more appropriate for a late-morning gathering than this combo of eggs, milk, bread and cheese. Stratas can be made ahead -- in fact, most recipes for it recommend an overnight rest in the fridge. They hold up well. Unlike a soufflé that immediately puffs and collapses, or scrambled eggs that turn rubbery and cold in seconds, strata is slow to deteriorate, even during a long stint on a buffet table. And leftovers reheat beautifully in the microwave.

I recently set out to find a strata that tasted top-notch. Which kind of bread, milk and cheese, and what quantity of eggs, would make the best possible strata?

The first surprise was discovering the best bread for strata: basic white bread. Unlike higher-quality loaves (such as a good Italian bread), which remained chewy and distinct, soft white bread easily absorbed the milk-egg mixture. There was an added benefit from this unified trio: The resulting custard didn't curdle during baking.

Some strata recipes tell you to cut the bread into cubes; others recommend using whole slices. Not only did cubing the bread add a step to the recipe, but the casserole tended to puff unevenly during baking, then deflate. Fitting whole bread slices snugly in a 9-by-13-inch pan kept the strata from looking like a lumpy mattress.

Half-and-half proved better than plain milk, delivering a custard that wasn't overly rich or watery. Whole eggs -- three for every cup of half-and-half -- resulted in a custard that was supple yet firm. I also liked the neat-and-tidy formula that was starting to develop: 1 quart of half-and-half to 1 dozen eggs.

Extra-sharp cheese and scallions perked up the flavor. Teaming milk, white bread and eggs with anything less than extra-sharp cheddar would have resulted in a bland, uninteresting casserole. Scallions improved the strata's looks and gave it a fresh, pleasant bite.

It was simple to change the look and flavor of the strata once I learned that 1 pound each of two flavoring ingredients offered the perfect ratio of filling to bread and custard -- a pound each of bell peppers and spinach, for example, or a pound each of mushrooms and sausage. So enjoy creating your own combinations using ingredients that are in season or on hand, and be prepared for compliments.

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Easy Strata & Variations

1 pound each of prepared meat and vegetable (optional) OR 1 pound each of 2 prepared vegetables (optional)
1 quart half-and-half
1 dozen eggs
1 tsp. salt and several grinds of pepper
12 slices fluffy white bread
12 ounces extra-sharp cheddar cheese, grated (about 3 cups)
1/2 cup thinly sliced scallions (about 3 medium)
Prepare meat and/or vegetables, if using.
Whisk half-and-half, eggs, salt and pepper until smooth. Spray a 9-by-13-inch Pyrex or ceramic baking dish with vegetable cooking spray. Line bottom with 6 slices of bread. If using meats and/ or vegetables, scatter half of each over the bread, then sprinkle with half of the scallions and cheese. Pour 1 cup of egg mixture over the top. Repeat layers with remaining bread, meat, vegetables, cheese and scallions. Slowly pour remaining egg mixture evenly over top. Cover with plastic wrap, then weight down casserole with 3 16-ounce cans for at least 15 minutes to submerge ingredients. (Can be refrigerated overnight, but return to room temperature before baking.)

Adjust oven rack to middle position. Bake in preheated 325-degree oven until custard is just set, about 50 minutes. Turn on broiler and broil until strata is spotty brown and puffy (watch carefully), about 5 minutes longer. Let stand for 8 to 10 minutes, then serve immediately.

Serves: 12.
Nutrition varies, based on meat/ vegetables used. Basic recipe, per serving: 362 calories, 17g protein, 17g carbohydrates, 24g fat (13g saturated), 1g fiber, 600mg sodium.