Issue Date: November 16, 2003
Do-ahead Thanksgiving
The holiday is really about catching up with family and friends. This year, try our columnist Pam Anderson's plan for getting the feast on the table with minimal fuss.
'"I wanted an irresistible, memorable dinner, but I also wanted a sane, orderly kitchen."
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I remember cooking my first few Thanksgiving dinners -- they weren't much fun. Thinking the dishes should be served fresh and piping hot, I timed it so I could carve the turkey, make the gravy, mash the potatoes, cook the vegetables and serve up the first-course soup at the absolute last minute.
There were lots of helping hands, of course, but the kitchen was a train wreck. We readied the dishes ER-style, then rushed them off to the dining room. Meanwhile, back in the kitchen, there wasn't a single clear spot to set dirty plates and glasses.
Over time, I watched experienced cooks pull off this elaborate meal. One relative's solution was to roast and carve the turkey a couple of days ahead, then warm it up -- ditto the potatoes and gravy. Although I admired her spotless kitchen, I didn't especially like eating leftovers. I wanted an irresistible, memorable Thanksgiving dinner, but I also wanted a sane, orderly kitchen. Over the years, I've developed a first-rate, do-ahead menu. Here's how:
I roast two small turkeys instead of one big one. We all like the idea of someone carving the turkey at the table, but here's the reality: Most people don't know how. You're gonna get turkey juices all over that nice white tablecloth, while the side dishes turn tepid. So carve one in the kitchen and use the second one for display.
Both turkeys get an overnight soaking in a brine of salt and sugar. The salt water cleanses the birds, seasons them and makes them juicy; the sugar helps them brown nicely.
Roast the first turkey early in the day. Because this one already will be carved and on the platter by dinner, looks don't matter. Enlist a strong person to cut out the bird's back and flatten the turkey, so it roasts nearly twice as fast. After roasting, let the bird rest up to an hour to firm up the meat, then carve. Close to serving, gently heat the sliced turkey on a covered ovenproof serving platter, or, if you want to pass the platter, warm the turkey on a cookie sheet, then transfer it to a platter.
The second turkey is strictly for show, seconds and leftovers. I recommend using a V-shaped rack in your roaster. (You can find one for about $12 in a kitchenware store.) Roast it early enough so there's time to make the gravy before the dinner rush. Start the turkey breast-side down. Halfway through roasting, turn it breast-side up. That way, the breast stays tender and juicy. (Flipping the turkey is a critical step. Don't omit it, or the breast will overcook.)
On to the side dishes:
Twice-Baked Sweet Potatoes are very do-ahead. If you find yourself in a pre-feast frenzy, skip spooning them back into the sweet potato cups and just warm the purée and serve it as is.
Mashed potatoes can be made almost completely ahead. Do nearly everything -- boil, peel and mash; stir in milk and salt -- up to two days ahead. Before serving, reheat. Adding butter at the last minute makes them taste freshly mashed.
Green Beans With Mustard Cream Sauce and Toasted Almonds is my answer to classic green bean casserole. The vegetables and sauce can be made in the morning. Before serving, heat them together and sprinkle with almonds.
A Thanksgiving feast that's both do-ahead and delicious. Who says you can't have it all?
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Roast Turkeys With Rich Pan Gravy
THE TRICK: Roast two small turkeys -- one early for eating, one late for show.
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2 turkeys (10 to 12 pounds each), neck and giblets discarded
3 cups kosher salt (do not use regular table salt)
2 cups granulated sugar
2 unpeeled medium onions, coarsely chopped
2 unpeeled medium carrots, coarsely chopped
2 medium celery stalks, coarsely chopped
2 Tbs. melted butter
1 cup dry white wine or vermouth
4 cups (1 quart) low-sodium chicken broth
1/4 cup cornstarch (or 1/2 cup all-purpose flour)
The night before roasting, dissolve salt and sugar in 3 gallons of cold water in a large, clean ice chest or similar container in a cold spot, such as an unheated basement or garage. For those in warm climates, add ice packs to keep turkeys cool. Add turkeys, breast-side down; cover and let stand about 12 hours. (This brining keeps the turkey from drying out and seasons it right down to the bone.) Drain. Rinse turkeys and pat dry.
For Turkey No. 1: About five hours before serving, set oven to 425 degrees and adjust oven rack to lower-middle position. Place turkey breast-side down and cut out the back with kitchen shears. Open up turkey and turn it breast-side up, pressing on it with your palms so it lies flat. Place turkey, skin-side up, on a lipped cookie sheet over a bed of half the chopped vegetables. Brush turkey with butter. Roast until a meat thermometer inserted into the thigh registers 175 degrees, 1 to
1 1/2 hours. Watch vegetables and pan drippings throughout -- they should be kept dry enough to brown and produce the rich brown goo with which to brush Turkey No. 2 and make a rich gravy, but moist enough to keep from burning. So add water as needed throughout the cooking.
Remove pan from oven and transfer turkey to a cutting board; reserve vegetables and pan juices for Turkey No. 2. Let the bird rest 30 minutes to 1 hour before carving, to allow the meat to firm up. Carve, transferring slices to an ovenproof serving platter or baking pan. Cover with aluminum foil. Refrigerate or set in a cool spot (below 40 degrees) until mealtime. Gently rewarm, covered, on platter or baking pan.
For Turkey No. 2: Immediately after removing the first turkey, lower the oven temperature to 400 degrees and adjust oven rack to lowest position. Scrape vegetables and pan drippings from Turkey No. 1 into a roasting pan. Set a V-rack in the pan. Place remaining raw vegetables in the cavity of Turkey No. 2, then tie legs together with kitchen string for a nicer presentation. Set turkey, breast-side down, on rack. Brush with pan drippings from Turkey No. 1. Roast
1 hour. Remove from oven; baste back and sides with pan drippings. Using two wads of paper towels, carefully turn breast-side up and baste. Keep roasting until a thermometer inserted into the leg registers 175 degrees, 1 to 1 1/2 hours longer. Again, watch vegetables and drippings throughout and add water as needed. Transfer turkey to a platter for display (and then for seconds and leftovers).
For gravy: Set roasting pan over 2 burners on medium-high heat. Add wine and, using a wooden spoon, stir to loosen brown bits. Strain contents of pan through a large strainer into a saucepan. Add broth and bring to a boil. Whisk cornstarch with 1/2 cup water (or flour with 1 cup water), then gradually whisk into pan juices. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to low and simmer until thickened. Serve immediately.
One turkey serves: 10 to 12, with plenty of leftovers.
Per 6-ounce serving, with gravy: 461 calories, 58g protein, 7g carbohydrates, 20g fat (6g saturated), 0.8g fiber, 769mg sodium.
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Twice-Baked Sweet Potatoes With Mini Marshmallows
THE TRICK: Prepare up to four hours ahead and finish in five minutes.
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4 whole medium sweet potatoes (about 2 pounds), pricked with a fork
1/4 tsp. salt
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1/3 cup buttermilk
1/3 cup milk
4 Tbs. butter
Garnish: 1/2 cup miniature marshmallows
Adjust oven rack to low position and heat oven to 400 degrees.
Place potatoes on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper or foil. Bake until fork tender, about 45 to 60 minutes. Let cool slightly. Handling the potatoes with a potholder, slice each in half lengthwise and scoop potato flesh into a blender or food processor -- for an especially silky texture, use the blender -- leaving a 1/4-inch border of flesh to support the potato skin.
Purée scooped-out flesh, along with salt and pepper, until smooth. With machine motor running, gradually add both milks through feeder tube. Stop machine, add butter, then process until potatoes are silky smooth. (Purée and potato shells can be cooled, then refrigerated in
an airtight container, up to 2 days. Return to room temperature before proceeding.) Spoon purée back into each shell. Just before baking, press marshmallows into potatoes. Bake at 400 degrees until potatoes are hot and marshmallows are golden brown, 10 to 12 minutes.
Serves: 8.
Per serving: 159 calories, 5g protein, 14g carbohydrates, 9g fat (4g saturated), 2g fiber, 268mg sodium.
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Make-Ahead Mashed Potatoes
THE TRICK: Stirring in butter at the last minute makes do-ahead potatoes taste freshly mashed.
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3 pounds russet (Idaho) potatoes, scrubbed but unpeeled
1 1/2 cups half and half, plus extra if necessary
Salt, to taste
6 Tbs. butter, softened
Place potatoes in a large pan with water to cover. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer, covered, until tender when pierced with a thin-bladed knife, 20 to 30 minutes.
Heat half and half in microwave. Process unpeeled potatoes through a food mill into a medium bowl. (Or, using a potholder, peel and drop them into a bowl. Purée using a potato masher or standing mixer fitted with the paddle attachment.) Stir in half and half and a sprinkling of salt (or beat, if using mixer) until smooth and fluffy. (Can be cooled and refrigerated in an airtight container up to 2 days.)
Thirty minutes before serving, microwave until warm. Transfer to a heatproof bowl set over a pan of simmering water. Stir in butter to melt. Cover with plastic wrap. Keep warm until serving time.
Serves: 8 to 10.
Per serving, based on 10: 215 calories, 4g protein, 26g carbohydrates, 11g fat (6g saturated), 1g fiber, 91mg sodium.
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Green Beans With Mustard Cream Sauce and Toasted Almonds
THE TRICK: Prepare up to two days ahead, then bake just before serving.
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4 Tbs. butter
1 package (16 ounces) frozen pearl onions or small whole white onions
2 pounds green beans, trimmed and snapped into 2-inch pieces
Salt
1 1/2 cups milk
1/2 cup chicken broth
1/4 cup (4 Tbs.) Dijon mustard
3 Tbs. flour
Freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup slivered almonds, toasted until fragrant in a 325-degree oven (10 minutes or less)
Heat 2 Tbs. of butter in a large, deep skillet over medium-high heat. Add onions; sauté, shaking pan occasionally, until golden brown, 5 to 7 minutes. Dump onions onto a large cookie sheet. Add green beans, 3/4 cup water and a scant teaspoon salt to the unwashed skillet. Turn heat to high; cover and cook until wisps of steam escape around the lid. Set timer for 5 minutes; cook until bright green but tender. Drain beans; transfer to cookie sheet with onions and spread out to cool. (Cooled vegetables can be covered loosely with plastic wrap and set aside at room temperature up to 4 hours ahead.)
Microwave milk, chicken broth and mustard in a 1-quart Pyrex-type measuring cup until steamy. Heat remaining 2 Tbs. of butter in the skillet. Whisk in flour, then hot milk mixture, until smooth and simmering. (Sauce can be made up to 4 hours ahead: Cover surface directly with plastic wrap, to prevent a skin from forming, and refrigerate; return to a simmer before proceeding.)
Add beans and onions; simmer until sauce is thick enough to cling, about 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Transfer to a serving bowl, sprinkle with toasted almonds and serve immediately.
Serves: 8 to 10.
Per serving, based on 10: 159 calories, 5g protein, 14g carbohydrates, 9g fat (4g saturated), 2g fiber, 268mg sodium.
Cookbook author Pam Anderson writes monthly for the magazine.
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