Recipes in this article: Very Versatile Hash Seven variations Ask Pamela Anderson a food question!

Hash in a dash

If you have a pound of protein plus potatoes and a few seasonings, you can whip up this brunch classic.

One of my favorite things to order when I go out to breakfast is hash -- corned beef, roast beef or any other variation -- which got me to thinking about trying to make it at home. After all, the ingredients are simple: As long as you've got some kind of protein, potatoes and onions, you're in business. And it makes a fast brunch or even light supper dish, with or without poached eggs.

I started experimenting with 1/2-inch-thick slices of corned beef from the deli, chopped onions and baking potatoes (I found that the starchier baking variety made a less gummy, more yummy dish than the boiling kind) and made several batches of hash.

Because it's difficult to cook, let alone brown, a large quantity of chopped, mostly raw food in a single skillet, my first obstacle was how to develop a well-made hash for four people without having to drag out two skillets. (I quickly discovered that a 12-inch non-stick pan was essential -- how many of us own two such skillets?) Initially I staggered ingredients, cooking the onions and meat until golden, and then adding the potatoes. But the onion overcooked and kept the potatoes from browning and crisping up.

Next round, I removed the cooked meat and onions from the skillet. This arrangement gave the potatoes all the room they needed to brown and crisp up, at which point I returned the cooked onions and protein to the skillet for a flavor blending and final crisping.

Hash needs a little liquid to bind it. Too much, however, and the dish stews and loses its crisp surfaces and bits. Many recipes use milk, cream or chicken broth. But I found that a bit of ketchup and Dijon mustard thinned with a little water not only moistened but subtly flavored and helped bind the hash. The sweet, colorful mix also gave the dish an attractive hue and helped it brown better in the final stages.

Because much of today's deli corned and roast beef comes from the beef round, I found the protein component of the hash lacked flavor. This sent me in search of more flavorful options -- ham, chicken, Italian sausage, Polish kielbasa, salmon, crab, even canned tuna -- all of which worked well.

And hash can be made almost completely ahead. If you want to get some of the chopping out of the way, prepare and measure all of the ingredients, tossing the potatoes in 2 Tbs. of oil and covering them with plastic wrap; the oil and plastic keep them from turning excessively dark. Resist soaking the diced potatoes in water. Although it keeps them from turning dark, it also prevents them from browning.

It's possible, in fact, to almost completely cook the hash a couple of hours ahead of brunch. Store the cooked protein mixture in a bowl and spread the sautéed potatoes on a large cookie sheet, covering them with plastic wrap once they've cooled. About 10 minutes before serving time, heat up the skillet, add the potatoes to re-crisp them, stir in the meat mixture and flavorings, cook for five minutes and it's done.

Contributing Editor Pam Anderson is the author of "CookSmart" (Houghton Mifflin, $28).

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Very Versatile Hash

2 Tbs. plus 2 Tbs. vegetable or olive oil
1 large onion, cut into 1/2-inch dice, or 1 medium-large onion and 1 small bell pepper (any color), cut into 1/2-inch dice (about 2 cups total)
1 pound meat/poultry/seafood (see chart below)
1 1/2 pounds starchy potatoes (such as Idaho), or 1 pound starchy potatoes and 1/2 pound apple/ vegetables (indicated in chart), cut into 1/2-inch dice (about 5 cups)
2 Tbs. ketchup
1 Tb. Dijon mustard
1/2 tsp. dried herb/spice (see chart)
2 Tbs. chopped fresh herb (see chart)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Heat 2 Tbs. oil over low heat in a 12-inch non-stick skillet (so potatoes don't stick). While skillet heats, prepare onion (or onion and bell pepper) and protein of choice as directed above. A few minutes before cooking, increase heat to medium-high. When oil starts to send up wisps of smoke, add onion, pepper (if using) and protein; cook, stirring often, until golden brown, 7 to 8 minutes (seafood and cooked meats brown faster). Meanwhile, dice potatoes (or potato/apple/ vegetable combo) and toss with remaining oil. Transfer protein mixture to a bowl and reserve.

Add potatoes (or potato mixture) to empty skillet; cook, stirring only occasionally so they form a golden-brown crust, about 10 minutes. As potatoes cook, mix ketchup, mustard, dried herb, fresh herb and 2 Tbs. of water.

(Recipe can be prepared to this point up to 2 hours ahead. Spread hot potatoes on a large lipped cookie sheet; cover when cool. Return skillet to medium-high; add potatoes and re-crisp.)

Return reserved protein mixture to skillet; stir in ketchup mixture, then season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring frequently, until hash has nicely browned, about 5 minutes longer.
Serves 4.

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Renee Comet for USA WEEKEND; Styling by Lisa Cherkasky