Advice

Kate Spade on personal style

The handbag queen weighs in on everything from bare legs with skirts to why she'd like those oversize "cocktail rings" of the '50s to make a comeback.

Kate Spade, like her signature handbags and other accessories, sports a fresh, clean look. Fashion trends have come and gone, but she has adhered to her own classic style over the 10-plus years she's been in business. In April, she adds author to her list of credits when her three-book series, Occasions, Style and Manners (Simon & Schuster, $20 each), arrives in stores. The brightly illustrated volumes offer advice and reflections on personal style, etiquette and entertaining. USA WEEKEND Magazine caught up with Spade to ask her about those situations where clothing and manners intersect.

Could you characterize the state of fashion today?
Within the last year or so, we've definitely seen more feminine-driven collections. I think there's also, fortunately, a great emphasis on mixing looks and personal style. You see much more eclecticism in fashion today; things don't have to be perfectly matched. It allows women to make more personal style choices, and they are choosing to move away from the aggressively sexy. I think it's great, because I've always had a feminine, slightly formal approach to style.

It seems every rule in fashion has been broken. Aren't there any hard-and-fast fashion rules anymore?
Not really. The key is to know what suits you personally. The idea of no rules leads to more freedom of personal choice for the customer, which I'm all for.

Is it ever acceptable for a woman wearing a skirt or dress to have bare legs?
Absolutely. It's a personal preference. However, if you work in a conservative office, you have to apply your style within its parameters.

Is it OK to wear stockings or socks with sandals or strappy shoes?
Certainly. A lot of the recent runway shows featured little open-toed sandals with patterned tights. I would make sure the seam at the toe does not show, and I would avoid wearing nude stockings or cotton socks with open-toed shoes.

What do you think is appropriate for "business casual" dress?
Dressing for work means dressing for your company and your responsibilities. You should consider the type of job you have and the environment you work in. I'm not fond of "casual Friday." Of course I want people to feel happy and comfortable, but when the staff shows up in shorts and sneakers to the office, it's as if they're saying "Goodbye" before even saying "Good morning." Err on the side of discretion, and draw attention to your work, not your dress.

If you're unsure how to dress for an occasion, is it better to dress up or dress down?
You can always wear a simple, flattering dress, which you can dress up or down with accessories. Bring some fabulous costume jewelry in your handbag and throw it on at the party if it's a dressier affair than you thought. Accessories also are easily stowed away in your handbag if the occasion is much more casual than you anticipated.

What fashion item would you like to see make a comeback, and why?
The cocktail ring -- the rage of the 1950s. I've always loved wearing them to parties. I love the idea of bringing back color and wearing really individual pieces with a strength to them.

Are there any no-nos anymore when it comes to color (for instance, "Never wear white after Labor Day" or "Don't wear black to weddings")?
No. The trick is to tweak it for the situation. Try winter whites in fall, as opposed to bright white. At a wedding, wear anything but white -- that's reserved for the bride.

Are hats on women extinct? If not, when should a woman wear one?
Hats are just the thing for adding wit and personality. I wear a hat whenever I'm in the sun, but I'm just as inclined to wear a wide-brimmed one indoors if my hair is misbehaving.

How about fabric rules (for example, no satin in the daytime or velvet in the spring)?
Absolutely not. I adore the idea of satin during the daytime if it is dressed down appropriately -- for instance, combined with sturdy cotton twill. I adore satin slingbacks all day, all night. And how beautiful is a lightly pink cotton velvet jacket in the spring? The most important thing is feeling confident and comfortable.

What's the worst fashion trend to come down the pike recently?
I'm not a fan of low-slung pants.

If you just love a sweater a friend is wearing and know it would look great on you, is it all right to go out and buy one just like it?
Yes, because each of you would wear it in a different way. Imitation is the highest form of flattery.

Who will be this era's Audrey Hepburn?
Sofia Coppola has great style. So do Gwyneth Paltrow and Kate Moss.