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FOOD

Expert tips to select the perfect cheese

Will it be a firm Spanish sheep's milk cheese? A buttery California triple-crème? Here are pointers to help you make sense of the dizzying bounty at gourmet stores and supermarkets.

By Kelly Dinardo

Wait to buy. People often purchase cheese too far in advance of the time when they plan to serve it. "It's best to buy it the day before or the day you're going to eat it," says Max McCalman, one of the nation's leading authorities on cheese and dean of curriculum for artisanalcheese.com, a New York City emporium that carries hundreds of varieties. Tell the seller when you plan to serve the cheese, particularly a ripening cheese, so he can help you pick one at the peak of flavor.

Consider how much you need. "If you're planning a big banquet with other food, then you don't need more than 4 or 5 ounces per person," says McCalman, the co-author of two books, "The Cheese Plate" and "Cheese: A Connoisseur's Guide to the World's Best." "If cheese is the focus, you'll want about 6 ounces per person."

Make friends with your friendly cheese dude, cheesemonger, fromager or cheese seller. "Talk to her about what you need and like," says Laura Werlin, the author of "Cheese Essentials: An Insider's Guide to Buying and Serving Cheese." "If she knows you need the cheese for entertaining rather than cooking or that you're going to serve it for dessert instead of as an appetizer, she will be able to help you make smart purchases. And don't be afraid to ask for a taste." Sampling different varieties made in different styles (such as hard vs. fresh cheese) can open up new worlds.

Mix it up. "Before you start loading your cart, look at the entire selection," McCalman says. "Once you've assessed what's there, mix up your choices by region, source of milk and texture." To create a more interesting plate, think variety: a fresh French goat's milk cheese, a hard Spanish sheep's milk cheese and a semifirm Vermont cow's milk cheese.

Branch out. With hundreds of cheeses to choose from today, it's a shame not to try new ones. "People's tendency is to stick with cheeses they know," Werlin says. "Most cheese counters are grouped by styles. Expand your horizons by trying cheeses that look like ones you know. If you like brie, try something like the St. André triple-crème."

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Now here's how to serve it

Once you've navigated the cheese counter, you'll want to present your fromage with flair. Whether you're featuring cheese before or after dinner, wait until it's at room temperature before serving it, says Artisanal's Max McCalman. "Take it out an hour before you're going to eat it to bring it up to room temperature," he says. "That way, the flavors start opening up."

Next, choose your serving plates. "I think it's important not to crowd your cheeses on one tray," says author Laura Werlin. She suggests using several trays or plates: "If you have a particularly strong cheese or a runny cheese, give it its own showcase." The Epoisses, is a case in point. And make sure each cheese has its own knife. "If you use just one knife, all the cheeses will start tasting the same," Werlin says.

Next, consider the accompaniments. The plainer, the better, the experts say. "I'm partial to neutral-flavored crackers," McCalman says. "It allows you to taste the flavor of the cheese, not the flavor of the cracker." Other great sides include fresh apples and pears, dried apricots, roasted nuts, honey or olives.

Finally, you can set out the cheeses and accompaniments for guests to serve themselves, or you can cut and portion cheese onto individual plates before guests arrive and cover lightly with plastic wrap. "If you're serving cheese after dinner, you can make it the dessert by putting some sweet accompaniments with it, like a chocolate truffle, and serving it with a dessert wine," Werlin says.