A new dawn for denim

What better fabric for Americans feeling blue than denim? Ideal for rough times, it's rugged, affordable and timeless. And this season, it's even fashion-forward when layered and taken beyond jeans. “Denim is easy, earthy and nostalgic,” says Robin Mollicone, assistant fashion design chairwoman at Pratt Institute in New York.

Once only weekend wear, denim works in the workplace now if it's colored and darker. “You can dress it up or down — and it's already in your closet,” Mollicone says. However, spring's freshest takes are tempting: Banana Republic's trench, Ralph Lauren's three-piece suit, Kooba's satchel, above, Valentino's hobo bag and Old Navy's ballet slippers.

“I love denim shoes with jeans,” says Ken Downing, Neiman Marcus fashion director. But double up with caution: Pair indigo with faded, and any hue works with floral sundresses, striped shirts or beaded minis. Says Downing: “No fabric is more universal.”