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It’s a night to go out and you reach for that little black dress, the one that’s been your go-to for nearly a decade. But this year it feels off. The cloth is starting to wear, the length is wrong, the buttons a bit dated. It’s time for a new look.
When USA WEEKEND asked me re-think the Thanksgiving classics, it made me take a look in my culinary closet. Was this finally the year to heighten flavor and reduce sugar in my cranberry sauce, to lose the marshmallows on the sweet potato casserole, to brighten the green bean casserole and creamed onions? Was it finally time to rethink pumpkin pie?
I knew where to go for help. The Culinary Round Table, an accomplished group of chefs I was working with, had done exactly that for Lean Cuisine. Without losing the integrity of this brand’s most popular entrees, these talented chefs managed to remake them and keep consumers happy.
Could they pull it off with our beloved holiday side dishes too? I assigned each a dish and here’s the result. I’m delighted to present their fresh takes on our holiday favorites.
Michelle Bernstein, Michy's in Miami:
Simply put, I’m a vegetable fanatic. I mostly prefer them lightly steamed or grilled and tossed with olive oil. But for the intergenerational holiday crowd I’ve done a little makeover on the beloved green bean casserole. My light, fresh French Bean “Casserole” has all the creaminess and crunch of the classic while intriguing the most finicky eater.
Brad Farmerie, Public in New York:
My brothers and I always looked forward to Mom’s fun Thanksgiving pumpkin desserts. (One year she baked pumpkin mousse on top of cheesecake!) Since most of us serve the expected pumpkin pie, dessert can be the low point of the holiday feast. My Pumpkin Crème Caramel is a nod to tradition but it’s light, delicate, whimsical.
Elizabeth Karmel, Hill Coutry Barbecue in New York and Washington, D.C.:
Sweet Potato Bourbon Mash is my answer to the treacly marshmallow-topped Sweet Potato Casserole. Double-cooking the potatoes—oven roasting them first and then mashing them right in the pot with highly flavorful ingredients (including a generous snort of bourbon)—results in a creamy, craveable dish you can enjoy at the holiday table… and year round!
Lior Lev Secarz, La Boîte à Epice in New York:
More than ever the United States is a melting pot with a cuisine just as diverse. Thanksgiving is the one holiday that brings us together. Of all the holiday dishes cranberry sauce is distinctly American. My Cranberry Chutney With Apricots and Pecans is a simple low-cal, low-sugar, intriguingly spiced sauce that celebrates our unity and diversity.
Paul Kahan, Blackbird in Chicago:
When given a choice between Creamed Pearl Onions and my Creamy Leek Gratin with Breadcrumbs and Bacon, wouldn’t you opt for the latter? I use just enough cream, cheese, and bacon to make the dish taste good without taking it decadent. And then there’s the light option where I puree some of the leeks with skim milk and Greek yogurt to completely replace the cheese and cream.
Be sure to check out all of the delicious recipes from this issue using the links above.
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